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Lillian Keeler

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July 24

Aloha...

Hawaii is just perfect and that really sums up this entire blog.  :) 
 
No seriously, stopping by Honolulu to see Carl on my way home from Beijing for the summer turned out to be a great idea!  My last week in China was pretty hectic between packing (well why lie - you know i did that the night before).  so i will say hectic with  thinking about packing, going away parties, getting things finished up at school.  there were some sad goodbyes to people who won't be coming back to isb next year and i can't even begin to imagine when it will be my turn to leave that place. 
 
the night before i left for the states, the world cup began at midnight in my backyard.  i say my backyard because they (i don't know who) had set up a huge screen tv by a soccer field that i can see from my window.  there was a bar and hundreds of people there to watch.  i decided to go with kim and kendra and it was so much fun i figured i may as well stay for the game and just sleep on the plane.  there were lots of germans there too so that made things all the more exciting.
 
a few hours later i left for hawaii and after a seven hour layover in tokyo with frank and a five hour flight from there i arrived in honolulu to a cool breeze and gorgeous blue skies!  carl greeted me with a lai and we went straight to breakfast on the beach.  we spent the next seven days going to the beach, hiking, hanging out with his friends, watching jazz videos and just catching up. 
 
the waves on the north shore were the largest people remembered there ever being in june so it was really cool to see the surfers out there.  i couldn't even stand on the edge without getting knocked over so i don't know how they do it!  we went to several beaches:  waikiki, sandy's, a turtle beach and many others.  my favorite day was early in the week when we left in the morning so carl could surf, went to lunch and then started back to his house.  but there had been a car accident so we had to turn around as the road was closed and go back to the beach.  we ended up spending the whole day out there watching the waves, laying in the sun and eventually catching the sunset.  a little mexican for dinner and then another great nights rest with the wind off the mountain blowing you straight to sleep.
 
we went for three hikes - twice to falls - and i really enjoyed meeting carl's friends.  i had some great sushi and poke and heard his band practice one night too.  they sounded great i thought (even though carl said they had some things to work on) but i really enjoyed sitting on the porch, staring at the amazing view of waikiki from his place while they played inside.  a good hour that i could live a few times over.
 
all in all a nice trip!  it sure made the trip back better and it is always nice to catch up with one of my all time favorite people.  there were things that we didn't get around to doing while i was there so i am looking forward to my next trip back!
May 24

memoirs of a rock star

ok, ok... so that is a huge exaggeration!!!!!  but i wanted to say it anyways.  the first gig with principles of yin went super!  i wanted to go to bed early the night before to be really fresh on saturday but of course i was too excited so i went to dinner with some friends and out for a little bit.  early the next morning i woke up to volunteer at the spring fair that the pta throws at our school every spring.  it was pretty amazing.  the pollution had been awful all week but amazingly on the day of the fair it was gorgeous.  i have friends who are convinced the school paid off the government to have good weather that day but i'm not so sure...
 
there were vendors surrounding the entire school, vendors inside, an international food court and on and on...  there were bands playing at school and all kinds of games, etc. for the little ones.  overall i think the school made something like 125000 USD.  not bad for a small school fair.
 
i left after my volunteer time to go straighten my hair before the big gig.  with things being a normal china day, the place where i was doing my hair lost electricity so i had to walk through capital paradise to find the next place.  finally i made it to the pomegranate.  to tell the truth, i had been feeling really good about things.  we hadn't been able to practice the night before because alicia was losing her voice and karen's fingers hurt from practicing so long on tuesday.  but i had played a lot that week and that morning and felt ready. 
 
until i got to the pomegranate.  we were the next band up so i went backstage (the alley in the village behind the pommie) to tune my guitar.  except i no longer remembered how to do it.  my stomach hurt, i didn't want to play anymore and jenn had to tune my guitar for me.  the other band started playing, i went through all of the songs once and then decided to go hang out with my friends until it was our turn.
 
but that was my only case of nerves.  the band finished and we got our things and walked onto the stage.  karen had a hard time getting her sound for the bass set up but that ended up being ok because i had some time to just get used to being on stage.  as soon as we started our first song i just started having fun.  i felt really relaxed and i enjoyed every second of it.  in fact, i didn't want it to end so soon.  i had forgotten how much i like to perform.  we already have one gig set up for next fall that we will pick new two songs for tomorrow night.  taking things slow is good for us!  we still have a web page coming so as soon as that is up i will pass it along!
 
the following week we had the swim meet for all of us crazies who swim at 6:30 am twice a week.  George, our past olympian swim coach, rounded up two swim teams in beijing for us to compete against.  these people were professionals compared to us but it was still a lot of fun.  i almost didn't compete because things had been so busy lately but i wanted to do it for george - he had been really excited.  as i feel completely slow at every stroke i signed up for 50m butterfly - big mistake!!!  people who swim that race know what they are doing.
 
i had never even swam more than 25m butterfly before in practice but i thought the adrenaline could keep me going the rest.  i climbed onto the thing (whatever it's called that you dive off of) and waited for the bleep.  dove in WITH my goggles (which i had just learned how to do two days prior) and started.  the first 25m was gorgeous.  i could tell out of the corners of my eyes that i was keeping up quite well with the pack.  but then we turned around and about halfway back i really started losing it.  i didn't want to finish but i could hear george screaming at the end of the pool FINISH!  FINISH!  man i was thinking - we are all dying.  but when i got to the end and spent my last bit of energy slapping the edge, i came up for air and realized everybody else had already caught their breath.  oh well - somebody has to come in last!
 
george had convinced me to also try the 50m free which i thought would be a bigger embarrassment as i do feel slow at practice.  but i finished second overall in this race...  not sure how it happened but i'll take it!!! 
 
and that's all for now.  only 2.5 weeks left of my school year in china and i'm not sure where the time has gone.  i will leave beijing for one week in hawaii and then seven weeks at home.  am really looking forward to beach time, squeezing my nephews and just "being" with my family and friends.  see you soon!

Bangkok and my first trip to the Beijing police station

just four weeks ago we were finishing up our last days before may break.  although spring break had just been three weeks before, we were still all really ready to get out of here!  the pollution had been bad, it was still cold and on and on ... 
 
we finished school on friday, went for a beer at the pommie and then out with friends for a little bit.  the following day i was up and at em trying to get packed for thailand.  kim, kendra and i flew out later that night around 10 pm for bangkok.  we arrived around 4 in the morning, bargained for a taxi and went straight to the hotel.  we had told the hotel we would be very late but we arrived even later than expected as our flight had been delayed.  they had given our room away!  back in a taxi and on to the next place - even though it was pretty nasty we were exhausted and slept easy. 
 
the next morning we awoke to blue skies, warm weather and BANGKOK!!!  we immediately went back to the other hotel because it was on Kosan St. full of hostels, bars, and backpackers from literally all over the world.  it is a pedestrian street and if you ever travel to bangkok i highly recommend the buddy lodge.  splurge for the best room - cheaper than a super 8 in the states but nicer than the holiday inn.  we had our own patio, beds for three and a pool on the roof.  stepping out of the hotel was a street full of people, pad thai vendors, fruit stands everywhere selling mango and pineapple and all the shopping anyone could ever want to do.
 
we spent the next four days following a strict daily schedule.  1.  sleep in  2.  go to breakfast  3.  go to pool  4.  do something cultural (the grand palace, temples, Chatachuk market, spa, river cruise, walking the many streets and side streets, shopping)  5.  nap  6.  shower and get ready for dinner  7.  bed
 
we were quite happy with our schedule.  all three of us just fell in love with bangkok.  it is gorgeous - tropical - and the food is unbelievable.  it seemed so easy going compared to beijing.  on the third day we all agreed that something was missing but couldn't seem to figure out what it was.  i know now that what we were missing was culture shock.  bangkok seemed quite easy after so many months living in asia.  the characters and language of course are different, the food is different, new atmosphere and way of live, but still asia and no culture shock.  maybe we are becoming world travelers after all... ;-) 
 
on the last day we took a tuk tuk (open air motor taxi) home the long way through china town.  we all perked up - it's funny to feel comfortable and at ease at the sight of a few chinese characters and red decorations in all the windows.  at 10 pm that night we left for the airport for a 1 am flight - don't think us irresponsible - we knew the flight would get us to work on time by 8 am the next day and we were right.  jerry (my favorite driver) was at the airport and he took us straight away to school.  no worries - a couple cups of coffee and a few math classes later i was on my way home for a nap with a tan and a new summer wardrobe in my bags.
 
i highly recommend thailand to anyone who ever has the chance to go.  i will be back next year and more if possible!
 
the following week frank (a fellow teacher) and i were on our way home from school.  it was one of the first really nice, warm days of spring (a little too late if you ask me) and he suggested going to the lake instead of home.  you don't have to twist my arm for these things and soon his wife and other friends met us.  we spent a lovely afternoon in the sun and on the way home when i went to pay for the taxi, i realized my wallet was gone. i paniced and rushed home to cancel all of the cards inside.
 
two days later i received a phone call from bju - the local expat hospital here in beijing.  two weeks ago i was taking a sip of my drink at a restaurant when a man bumped my elbow and cracked my left front tooth.  the whole bottom part cracked off and i was walking around for two days like a serious rugby player.  i scheduled an appointment with a wonderful dentist at bju (going to the dentist in china is a whole other story i can tell you about later if you want to hear...) and she fixed me right up.  anyways, i had left my wallet in the first taxi of the day at the lake - he had turned it into the police station - and they had found my receipt from the hospital, contacted them and they had contacted me!  funny how these things all work out.
 
so i left school that afternoon with kris to go get my wallet from the police station.  i had been told that no one there would speak english which turned out to not be entirely true - two gentlemen told us good morning as we entered.  they then snickered and pointed to two chairs by the window.  we sat down but i didn't think they knew who we were so i got up to try to explain - immediately they pointed back to the chairs.  ok.  out came the captain (or boss of some type) with a wallet stapled in a brown envelope.  he motioned us over and slowly undid the envelope.  he then started to take things out one by one and slammed them on the counter.  each time he would take something out he would look at it, look at me, shrug his shoulders and then say God only knows what.  the other six police in the station would laugh hysterically and then he would go for the next thing.  i was actually enjoying myself and i asked kris if she thought i was getting some type of public scolding.  she said she was pretty sure of it and asked me to look sorry.  i was probalby getting insulted left and right but when you understand absolutely nothing it just doesn't have the same effect.  i just kept smiling and once everything had been taken out (including my sc drivers license, copy of my passport and all of my money) the captain pushed everything over to the side of the counter for me to put away.  he shook his head, shot me a smile and left the room.  although there were no smoking signs everywhere several of the men were smoking and offered kris and i one.  no thanks - i'm getting out of here!
 
hopefully that's my only trip to the beijing police but at least it's good to know the taxi drivers are honest - and i hope in some way rewarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
May 07

cruising the yangtze with mama and betty ann

over a month ago now (where did that month go?) spring break arrived and mama and mrs. betty along with it.  i left on the monday of break for the airport.  i had been very specific about their entry into china.  the airport is typically very crowded, there are several forms to fill out at a few different places and customs can take ages.  it is hard to find a cart and there is no one there to help with baggage so i had encouraged them to pack light.  i waited with anticipation for them to emerge from the luggage room and finally they did... but with no bags!  they came smiling down the walkway - so happy - and i asked them immediately where there things were.  mama replied - oh he has it. here came a sweet chinese man with their things.   they had made a friend already in china and found someone to bring their bags for them.  this was only the beginning of days and days of stories! 
 
we flew out the next afternoon for the yangtze river cruise which proved to be not only relaxing but informative and more than a little sad as well.  i'll tell you all about it when i get home but basically a lot of people are losing homes that their families have lived in for up to seven generations.  in the afternoons we drove through these villages and everything has been taken from the homes - including the front doors - to the new apartment buildings that the government has built for them to move into.  we met a lot of nice people on the cruise and enjoyed four days of just catching up with each other. 
 
when we returned to beijing we had a whirlwind ten days of shopping, touring, dinners, friends, seeing schools and tons else.  we visited a small school in the village by isb and then went to a boarding school nearby where parents can begin boarding their children at age two!  i enjoyed showing mama and betty ann off at my own school where friends i have had since day one here were so excited to meet them.  i threw a small party for them one sunday afternoon where over 40 of my friends stopped by to say hello.  and the best night - they spent all afternoon cooking fried chicken, mac and cheese, green beans, cucumber salad, potato salad, deviled eggs, crab dip and a birthday cake for me and my closest friends!
 
these two got pretty good at bargaining in the markets and even surprised xiao wei (local tour guide and friend) with their prices!  he was quite impressed.  and they enjoyed leftovers from the dinner with xiao wei on top of the great wall.  they have now hiked more of the wall than me!!!
 
the two weeks passed too quickly and before i knew it we were back at the airport.  it was sooooo hard to say goodbye after they had been here and we had such a good time.  my kitchen looked like mamas had been here - my apartment had been full of people - i had a great time and now it was ending all too quickly.  even though i knew i would be going home in just two and a half months - that seemed way too long.  i kept reminding myself that spring would be here soon and another break in may not too far behind.
 
but i woke up the next morning to cold weather and my first beijing dust storm.  there was literally a half inch of dirt covering everything - little did i know that was the beginning of many and warm weather was still over a month away!  since then i have traveled to bangkok - will write about that this week - spent more time getting ready for our first gig this week - and now only five weeks until my first year in beijing is done!  i can't believe how fast this first year has gone.  i will be seeing ya'll soon and in the meantime... ask mama about the hookah! 
March 27

the principles of yin, yellow carrots and ashley

it's 1:30 pm, monday afternoon, the first day of spring break, and mama and betty ann will be landing in approximately two hours here in beijing.  i am soooooooo excited!  i have a full two weeks planned for them but there is so much to see and do and i want them to see it all!
 
the last weeks here have been eventful.  awhile ago i walked into the popular expat grocery across the street called april gourmet.  the second i walked in one of the cashier girls came running up to me "yellow carrot, yellow carrot" - i had absolutely no idea what she was talking about.  she grabbed my arm and walked me over to the vegetables. 
 
one of the many services of this grocery is that you can call and order groceries for delivery.  i'm not sure if she had gotten confused with the order or something called a yellow carrot really exists but i wasn't much help.  i showed her orange carrots, yellow peppers, bananas???  the only westerner around i offered to call the lady who had ordered the groceries but as i didn't know how to make my offer in chinese, still wasn't much help. 
 
but these experiences are always good for a laugh.  and we still laugh everytime i go in for milk or whatever.  and still i've seen no yellow carrots - but if you know what one is - let me know and i will take one to her!
 
two weeks ago karen, the bass player in a girl teacher band called principle of yin, asked if i would like to join as rhythm guitarist.  theirs had quit and they were looking for someone.  sure!  i explained it had been a long time since i had played but that i knew a good number of chords and would be willing to try.  as the band is made up of beginning musicians i thought it sounded like fun.  the first practice went well but at the end of it karen asked me to tell her about the band i had been in in college.  i've never been in any band i said and everyone looked up.  oh she said - i must have had you mixed up with someone else!  :)  i think they asked the wrong person but it has been for the bestf.  i had forgotten how much i love playing music.  we have a gig on may 13 at some outdoor festival and we are working on seven different songs for the big debut.  we will have a picture made soon which of course will be posted here for your viewing pleasure.  ;-) 
 
the following saturday, anke our drummer and her husband took me down to instrument street so i could buy a used guitar and amp.  it was fun going from shop to shop, bargaining for instruments and supplies and i finally found MY guitar - and i love it.  the owner threw in some pics, a new set of strings and a bag for free and i have been practicing a lot ever since.  they have lots of violins for sell there too so you never know...
 
later that afternoon my friend ashley flew into beijing.  ashley was a good friend of kristin's when she lived in new york and we would always hang out when i went to visit.  a fellow southerner, ashley is originally from charleston.  she has been in hong kong for six weeks and stopped by beijing for three days before going back to the big apple.  it was so good to see her!  we had a full three days of dinners at the red rose and peking duck, a trip to the great wall, and of course massage.  she will be back on business again in the fall and i hope she will be able to come back - and kristin you need to come with her!  :)
 
hope all is well - i will post more pictures soon - going soon to get mama!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
March 10

Kobe, Tianjin and more than a few antiques

 sorry i haven't written in soooooooooooo long!  :)  life has been busy but good. 
 
quite a few weeks ago i left beijing with the varsity girls team for kobe, japan.  i had just returned from harbin exactly one week before and for those of you who know how much i love to travel - i was actually looking to sit still for awhile.  but that wouldn't come for a few weeks.
 
the landing in japan was anything but smooth as the winds blew across the water and we were literally tilting back and forth.  i was laughing nervously, one of the boys coaches wouldn't stop talking about how it's always this way here, one kid got sick, and i think we all said a prayer of thanksgiving once the plane was actually on the ground.  we landed in osaka and then took a bus for about an hour to a small place called Rokko Island, just outside of Kobe. 
 
i felt a little sheltered living in capital paradise my first two months in beijing - but that was nothing compared to canadian academy and rokko island.  all the teachers and most expats in kobe live in this secluded little area right outside of the city.  after not seeing the water for awhile i realized how much i miss it.  and the streets were clean and organized, cars actually stop at red lights, clean glasses at the restaurants, a much more western way of living.  but a little too organized if you ask me... ;-)  you can't even talk on the trains and that was way too hard for me!
 
all the girls left with their homestays and chad and i were off for a coaches dinner.  i was looking forward to this as i have gotten to know some of the coaches pretty well this year through various tournaments.  after a meeting in a room with no heat (in japan you only turn the heat on in that room when you go in it and the gym had no heat at all!) we all went off to bed. 
 
on thursday we played two games, two more on friday and the final two on saturday.  the tournament was so close.  our highlight was beating shanghai, who had beaten us twice that year by more than 10 points each time.  we played our absolute best, stayed tough through the end and won by 3.  going into the 5th game before the final, we still had a chance at playing for 1-2, 3-4, or 5-6 depending on our last game and who else won/lost.  we lost that game and shanghai won which put us playing for 5-6.  we won that game and finished 5th for the tournament.
 
that night the coaches went downtown in kobe and saw many of the sights.  chad and i went for kobe beef which literally melts in your mouth - it is so tender and the ginger sauce you put on it is divine.  we went to a couple of bars - one with penguins!  see the pics - and several jiffy stores that even had sushi.  the night finished with one more bike ride through the city, with me perfectly balanced on the back like all good asians do, and on sunday we traveled back to beijing. two days later i would start a new position as head coach of the 7th grade girls basketball team...
 
we are five weeks into that season now - i think - the time is passing too fast and i can't seem to catch up!  the saturday after shanghai, i traveled to tianjin with the girls for our first tournament.  this is a city of several million people but believe me - there is nothing there!  the girls wanted lunch at kfc and then wanted to go to wal-mart but i said absolutely not.  kfc was enough!  we won both games and talked and laughed the full three hour ride back to beijing.  a gentle reminder that i am glad to be teaching high school!  ;-)
 
since then i have been trying to enjoy beijing some although things seem too busy at the moment.  i have done tons of antique shopping with kris and barry, found a neat place called suzie wong's where it is easy to meet westerners - some who are pretty fun - visited a daoist temple (funny because i thought it was buddhist the entire time until i was leaving). 
 
last week, joe siren, a professor from allendale brought ten students from the carolinas to beijing.  he is a friend of castro's who i had met this summer.  i took his group to banana leaf the second night they were here and what a learning experience that was.  several had never left the states before and one girl was actually crying at the table.  two nights later we went to red rose and all were better.  they were dancing on stage and enjoyed the food and shisha.  they weren't as intimidated by food they didn't recognize and their surroundings.  i had fun with them and i think they enjoyed these two nights - before leaving they announced i had an honorary degree from usc-salkahatchie!  and i enjoyed so much listening to them talk - i miss a nice southern accent.  and their stories were good too.  one girl recently moved out of beaufort because the traffic has gotten too bad :) and another kept talking about how a clothing store that has recently closed in walterboro will be the downfall of that town.  oh, i miss home!  :)
 
mama and mrs. betty will be here a week from monday and i have enjoyed the last few days wondering what they will think of all this.  on the way to school yesterday we passed a donkey and cart, a car traveling down the wrong side (as usual) and a herd of sheep.  i took the staff bus home, got off early, bought some pineapple on a stick and took a stroll through the embassies.  a little short cut i take sometimes had been completely torn up last week but has been neatly restored and i wandered through a hutong "village" before finally finding my way home.  these are the things i hope they will see the most!  all of the charms of beijing that you don't see at the big tourist hot spots. 
 
i am still loving this city and it is really starting to feel my own.  too busy yes - but three more weeks of basketball and things will slow down.  hope you are all doing well and i promise to write more now.  missin you!
February 05

Harbin Snow and Ice Festival

A week ago today I left my apartment at 6:30 am for the airport for Harbin.  This is a city in northern China close to the Russian border known for its ferocious winter temperatures (-25 degrees Celsius), Russian vodkas and their snow and ice festival.  I got to the airport, checked in and was soon boarding.  The only westerner on the flight, I was getting my fair share of stares.
 
An hour and a half nap later we were landing.  I got my luggage and started for the taxi stand when I realized I had nothing written in Chinese about where I was going.  For the first time since I moved here six months ago I felt really alone.  And in Harbin, I had no one to call to help me.  I had gotten a room in a hotel through Orbitz so I called the number on the confirmation and had the driver talk to them.  An hour later I was checking into the 2 star Chinese hotel.  I think I was the first westerner they had seen in awhile and they tried ever so patiently to talk to me but I am still pretty worthless at these times - my Chinese is way too limited to be doing lots of traveling here by myself still.  As soon as I got to my room, an ayi brought me a kettle of hot water and some jasmine tea and I settled right in.
 
After resting a little while I decided to go out to the snow park.  I hadn't been walking long when an older Chinese man on the street starting talking to me.  He spoke to me first in Russian and then when I didn't respond, English.  He was fluent in all three languages.  His name was Chin and when he introduced himself, he bent over to write his name in the snow, first in letters and then characters.  We spoke for a long time and I finally asked him if he knew of a good place to go and get something to eat.  He took me to a Russian theater/restaurant about five minutes away and we were soon ordering lunch.  He explained he had no money and I told him no problem - I would be glad to buy him lunch to say thanks for him showing me the way.  When Betsy and her family arrived in Harbin, Chin gave instructions to their cab driver and we soon met them in the snow park. 
 
Betsy is an elementary school counselor at ISB and she traveled to Harbin with her husband (who is a trailing spouse), her daughter Alex (who is in 9th grade and my Algebra class at ISB - every student's dream - to travel with her math teacher!) and Munghau, their five year old Chinese daughter who they adopted four years ago.  We spent a couple of hours in the snow park and then finally made it into a yurt for a warm cup of coffee and some lamb on a skewer.  The snow park was so amazing - they even had a replica of the forbidden city made out of snow.  You could walk all the way up to the third floor of it.  And a replica of Bai Hai park in the background.  You name it - they have built a statue of it out of snow!
 
Later we went into town for a Chinese dinner and Betsy being resourceful with menus written only in Chinese and Russian walked from table to table and pointed to the waitress what looked good to order!  Luckily I know how to say beer and tea in Chinese so I had the drinks covered!  :)  After dinner we walked down to Stalin park where Alex and I decided to sled down one of the ice hills they have made completely out of ice.  We got on a wooden sled and flew down the chute - we screamed so loud Betsy thought one of us had gotten hurt - it was an absolute blast - just way toooooooooooooooo cold!!!
 
They offered for me to stay with them in the Holiday Inn in town with the same comforts a Holiday Inn would have at home but I was feeling brave and decided to head back to my own hotel room.  So after my taxi driver was lost for about 30 minutes he finally found the Harbin Post Sun and Snow Resort Hotel where I was staying.  Except that my hotel was literally in the snow park and he had to drop me off about a quarter mile from the hotel.  I had to walk through the snow park in the dark by myself the whole way!  I wanted to call Betsy to talk to her while I walked but my cell phone had died (of course) and I had to tough it the whole way there.  This is what people write horror movies about I kept thinking but I tried to just concentrate on the warm shower I would take when I got back and maybe a little TV.
 
I made it safely but no hot shower followed on account that they don't have hot water.  When I asked about it they brought me another kettle of hot water - thanks!  As for the TV no channels in English - I guess I'm a little spoiled in Beijing.  So I ordered a beer from the front desk (a tall boy for 3 kwai - less than 50 cents) and got a lot of reading and sleeping done on this trip!  ;-)
 
We hired a travel guide for the next day and at 9:30 the following morning we were on our way to see the "ice swimmers".  The river in Harbin is frozen over but they have carved a hole out of it where there are 10-15 swimmers who swim every morning.  A man comes out every hour on the hour and scoops out any ice that may have formed since he was there last.  I had on two pairs of socks, boots, long johns, hat, scarf covering my face and still I was miserable cold - they walked out in speedos and bathing suits, some bare footed - waving and blowing kisses to the crowd.  I could not believe it.  They got the crowd shouting and then dove in one by one.  They would swim for a few minutes, get out, receive more cheers and then go back inside.  We were told they have been doing this for so long their bodies have adjusted to the cold.  One more thing I can add to my list of things I don't need to try before I die!
 
Afterwards we headed to the Siberian Tiger Park.  They have over 400 siberian tigers at this park and you can pay 50 kwai to hop on a bus that rides through the park.  For 60 kwai you can ride a bus that will watch them feed.  We thought that was the best choice until we actually saw it.  The reasoning behind this park is that these tigers are near extinction.  So they opened the park so they could safely reproduce (a poacher can make 10 years salary in China from one tiger) and then when the numbers go up they will start releasing them back into the wild.  The only problem is that they are developing a taste for the farm animals that they eat daily and they associate humans with feeding time.  I turned one time on the bus to the window and was staring face to face with a hungry tiger whose head was about three times the size of mine - that's about the time you are wishing the bus was going a little bit faster...
 
After the tigers we went to a Russian Orthodox Church in Harbin called St. Sophia's.  It is one of a few churches that survived the cultural revolution in Harbin and is now used as a museum.  A couple of Russian markets, a walk through the streets, Russian dinner and it was time for bed again - and my nice lonely walk through the snow park.  Before I went to bed we went to the night festival of ice where they have made tons of sculptures of ice and strung lights through them.  Truly a winter wonderland.  And until this point although several people had told me Harbin is a place you only go once, I had thought I might come back.  But Harbin at night is about as cold as I think I have ever been.  The sculptures were unbelievable (they even had a Cartier made of ice and igloos you can go and eat and drink in) but I have seen it and don't care to ever be that cold again - ever!
 
The next morning we spent some more time in the snow park and then I decided to go hang out at the Holiday Inn for a few hours to read and check emails before I headed back to the airport.  When I went to check out of the hotel, they wouldn't take my money.  They kept asking me to wait so I figured they had gone to look for someone who spoke English to help.  They returned with a 10 year old girl who explained to me that her mother wanted her to practice her English with me.  She couldn't stop laughing she was so embarrassed by the whole thing - but I had fun with her.  When I tell people I am a teacher they think that is nice but when I tell them I am a basketball coach they get so excited!  I always get a "cool" or a thumbs up and lots of smiles.  The young girl left and I pulled out my Mandarin handbook to show them in characters that "I am checking out now."  Goodbye the lady said to me.  I took money out of my purse and tried to give it to her but she wouldn't take it and after 30 minutes of trying, I left frustrated.  I immediately called Betsy and told her if I got arrested for not paying it was a set up!  :)  I still don't know what happened - if it was a miscommunication or if maybe Chin had paid my bill.  I guess I will never know.  But it made the two star much more memorable considering it was free!
 
I was more than happy to arrive back in Beijing later that night to a city that I recognize, can communicate in and feel so secure in now.  As all regions have different dialects China does too - and I am definately learning "Beijing" chinese as that is the only place in China that anyone understands anything I say. 
 
And from there the week has been good.  Basketball practice on Wednesday, PD days on Thursday and Friday, birthday dinners Friday and Saturday night, a Chinese New Year temple fair yesterday, church this morning and of course... fireworks EVERY NIGHT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! 
January 28

China Cup - Shanghai

last weekend i left school early with both boys and girls varsity teams and the jv teams too.  we were headed for the airport to catch our flight to shanghai for china cup.  this is a tournament these teams play in every year to give international schools in china more chances to play.  the three other teams there for the varsity girls were shanghai american school, concordia international school and hong kong international school. 
 
when we first landed and i walked into the airport - immediately things felt different.  the airport was clean, colorful - there was even a mcdonald's!  instead of risking your life crossing eight lanes of cabs and buses, you walk out into blue skies and an open air parking lot.  and i was thinking... how did i end up in beijing???  i heard shanghai is more western and that was true without a doubt.  but the longer i was there i realized the people weren't as nice, the food isn't as good and it's just not as challenging to get around.  shanghai does not have the communist feel that beijing has (i don't know if that is good or not) but by the end of the weekend i was ready to be back in beijing.
 
SAS hosted the tournament and they have a nice facility.  it is made up of several buildings which together create the campus.  we lost every game but actually played fairly well - we were just a little out of our league.  on saturday night i went out with chad for a little bit to meet some of his friends from shanghai - they were all american and one was from charleston!
 
i wish there was a way to explain what i am witnessing at this exact moment.  tonight is new years eve for chinese new year and the fireworks do not stop for one moment.  it literally sounds like there are thousands of machine guns being shot all over the place.  this is no exaggeration - i can see fireworks in every direction from my appointment and they are starting to create a deafening roar.  all week there have been colorful stands set up on the streets and the people have been excited as the band was dropped this year for fireworks in the city.  great.  for a few hours each night you can hear them anywhere in the city and you have less than 60 seconds at a time in silence.  barry says this is what it sounds like on occasion in beirut - except those aren't fireworks.
 
walking around the city today i got a kick out of watching the people.  they were all scurrying around with their hands full of bags full of food, etc. as this is their biggest holiday of the year.  the apartment building smells great as everyone is cooking and most have this week off.  the lucky don't go back to work until the middle of february. 
 
walking the streets even this morning i would often have to stop and wait as groups were setting off fireworks from the streets.  maybe my friends knew what they were doing when they decided to leave the country for this break! 
 
on wednesday we had chinese carnival all morning at school.  it was soooooooo great!  the chinese department sponsored it and it started with a parade through the school.  we had lion dancers, dragon dancers, bikers, carosouls, it was unbelievable!  after that you chould choose between four different sessions.  you could watch a traditional chinese wedding, tai chi, wushu, monkey king, chinese food, fan painting, opera face painting, circus acts and the list goes on and on...  the new teachers had just as much fun as the kids and i was told by teresa chou (head of chinese studies) that this is a true chinese carnival - any park will have a festival just like this all week.  they were also serving jaozi (like a dumpling - they eat these at the new year because it is shaped like a gold nugget) and chinese tea.  i have great pictures of the whole thing but i have lost the cord that connects my camera to the computer.  as soon as i find it i will add pictures.
 
tonight to celebrate the new year i will go to have a pot luck at zerlina and lennox's with everyone who has stuck around for the holidays.  tomorrow i head off to harbin in the north near siberia.  supposedly they have a gorgeous snow and ice festival that i am going to see.  in the meantime i will sit and watch the show and hope that i am not deaf by this time tomorrow!
January 15

the benefits of jet lag...

so, i have now been back in beijing for almost a week now and i have completely recovered from jet lag.  well, almost... 
 
three weeks in beaufort just wasn't quite enough.  i arrived very late on a friday mid-december and spent my entire first week sleeping and eating.  literally.  i was asleep every night by 7 or 8, awake by 6 am in time to have breakfast with my parents (they cooked breakfast - every morning!) spend some time reading, checking emails, do a little shopping for things i can't find in china and time for a nap!  dinner with the family and ready for bed again.  i slept more in my first week back in beaufort than i think i slept my entire first semester here in beijing.  but the sleep was sweet and much needed.  christmas day came and it was so nice to be in church with my family that day and then lunch, presents, nap :-), went to watch sam kick, dinner and an all around perfect day.
 
after christmas, i spent more quality time with my family and friends.  we had a back yard oyster roast one night with premium oysters, chili and frogmore stew - nice fire and good friends.  i got to see the beaufort high lady eagles play and enjoyed a nice visit with angelica the next day.  it was so good to see all my friends from beaufort high - i miss working with them. 
 
i took in some good ole american movies and spent as much time with my nephews as i could.  jaxon is completely amazing - i enjoy one on one time with him as he is as cool as any of my friends could ever be.  :-) miles is as precious as ever captivating you immediately with those big blue eyes and braydon - well, you just fall in love with him at first sight!  i couldn't get enough of them. 
 
my siblings aren't doing bad either.  jim and shay are doing good.  liesle is still enjoying her big business on bay street at the barbershop, laura is having fun being mama and sam is gorgeous as always.  he made the all area team for football and i am sooooooo proud of him!  i got to see him kick on christmas day and even though i loved the moment it made me a little sad to think of all those games i've missed.  i got to visit with mama and daddy lots and i am so thankful for all the support they have given me in this endeavor.
 
all too soon i was on a plane back to beijing and after my fair share of tears at the charleston airport i felt somewhat ready to get back.  that feeling stayed with me on the plane as i wrote my reports for students for report cards on my lap top all the way to beijing.  there were some college students on the plane coming for a semester abroad and i could relate to the anticipation in their eyes.  i had fun sharing stories and giving advice of what (and especially what not) to try.  i was excited to see everyone again and happy to be back in china - until i got off the plane.  and then all of a sudden i was back in dusty smoky spicy overwhelming china.  but as all things are a learning experience i now know that coming back just takes some time to adjust.  i felt it in october and here again after christmas.  somehow my bed got much harder over the break and none of my clothes fit.  who has been changing things in my apartment?  ;-)
 
alicia had been on the same flight as me and we immediately dropped our stuff off, showered, and then went for sezchuan and massage.  i slept perfectly through that night and woke up thinking well, there's nothing to this - i don't have one bit of jet lag.  i made it energetically through my first day back at school and through practice.  that night i went to frank and emily's for dinner and felt good until i ate.  and then i hit my brick wall.  i always look forward to the good food and company on monday's but on this particular night and i had to eat and run.  i made it home as quickly as i could and hopped right into bed - i didn't even take my coat off! 
 
i was up by 4 am the next morning and the rest of my week was pretty much just that.  making it through every bit of the day that had to be done before i could come home and crash.  and i realized that sometimes jet lag isn't such a bad thing.  i have been wide awake for school every day this week and i am so tired by the end of the day that i don't have too much time to think about how much i miss and love my family.  and i miss and love them much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
after practice on friday i went to dinner at a mexican place with kim, frank and emily and later barry met us at a place called the goose and duck.  now this is where you go if you are homesick.  it is a traditional irish bar but everything about it screams america - including the clientale.  saturday morning i had practice and then i met carey and barry at the big flower market.  much to my delight my first purchase was an orange tree.  yep, that's right - an orange tree.  china has these great mini-oranges, smaller than a mandarine.  and the tree is small as well, not quite as tall as me.  i was so excited as i remember all those florida orange trees from my childhood.  i bargained to a better price than i was expecting and wandered on to see what else i could find.  a few purchases later i came back to have my tree delivered.  when i told barry how cheap i had gotten the tree he asked me if i had tried one yet.   well, no i haven't.  he plucked one and began peeling.  as he was peeling the orange the vendors in the market all started watching.  they were even tapping shoulders of others to get them to turn and watch.  this isn't looking good i was thinking but too late now.  barry took one bite and all the people started laughing and saying "sour, sour" these things are more sour than a lemon!  you didn't tell me that before i bought it i said and they were laughing more.  can i trade it... no!  how can fruit that looks so much alike taste so different.  these people make me laugh.  and i make them laugh so i guess it all works out.  but i must say i love my new tree, sour or not, and i was thinking through the whole thing, it's ok to be back here.  good ole china - i feel good with it.
 
we walked our plants outside to a little white mini-van and one of the laughers drove us home with our new plants.  afterwards barry and i went to lunch at a restaurant where the specialty was silk worm among other things.  we settled for hot pot and then went to an antique furniture market.  i bought a cool kitchen table with chairs as i feel more like nesting now and i am quite happy with my new purchase. 
 
tonight i went for dinner with ghasson and jennifer, kris and barry and some more friends.  as ghasson is italian and we were in an italian restaurant we were given no menus.  he told the chef to bring us his best things and that is what we got.  another great meal.  ghasson keeps promising us he is going to take us all to tuscany and you all know i will be the first to commit to that!  i still think i may end up in italy one day.
 
so that is all for now - i am feeling much better about being back and am looking forward to a weekend in shanghai in just 5 days!  i will write again when i get back.  hope all is well, take care and i am missing all of you already!!!
 
 
December 12

Four days and counting...

Well I guess if you count the 14 hours I will be on the plane it's about 5 until I'm home but 4 sounds better...
 
Sheng dan kuai le!!!!!!!!!!  Merry Christmas that is - I am listening to Christmas music in my guest room which is so full of Christmas presents that it actually smells like a Chinese market in here!  This will be my last entry of the year as I am looking forward to time with my family, time with friends, rest and just enjoying clean air, good food and southern accents! 
 
A couple of weeks ago I got an email on a Friday afternoon from Chad - the coach I work with - that the team we were scheduled to play wouldn't be able to make it but could play us if we went there.  In his 7 years of coaching here he has never had an away game other than the tournaments we play in so I got really excited at the opportunity.  At 3 pm that afternoon we boarded a bus going north towards the Great Wall to play a team in a traditional Chinese school.  We stepped off the bus and walked across the running track to go into the gym.  Some of the schools here are sports schools - students are picked early with athletic ability and are sent to these schools where they have studies but the emphasis is on playing sports.  We had been told that these are some of the nicest facilities but still there was no heat in the gym.  I haven't been converting Celsius to Fahrenheit but to give you an idea of how cold it has been - people are now walking across the lakes here because they are frozen over!  So I coached the entire game in my winter coat!!!  When we walked in the gym it felt like being on the red carpet - all the people were lined up along the court to welcome us.  I don't think they see westerners up there too much and we were greated with literally hundreds of smiles and "hellos".  The game started and instead of the students sitting in the stands, they lined the baselines and the opposite sideline 4-5 people deep.  The girls had to move them to pass the ball in sometimes.  All in all a fun night - we lost by 20 points but considering how overwhelming the whole event was I thought that was alright.  Our girls look terrified walking on to the court, they were freezing and the Chinese don't play with "girls" balls - bathrooms were worse than inner Mongolia but I had brought a roll of toilet paper which proved to be the most valuable possession of the evening.
 
I woke up early that Saturday morning for basketball practice and then I had appointments with Kris and Kendra to get our nails done for the ISB winter party that night.  School hosted a formal dinner party for us at the Great Wall Sheraton.  None of us were looking forward to it but it turned out to be one of the funnest nights here yet.  Almost the whole staff was there and it was fun to see everyone sooo pretty and outside of school.  We had a four course dinner and then the DJ played for hours.  My friend Ray and I danced a lot and one time the whole crowd cleared to watch us - he is a great dancer and we always have fun!  He coaches me through the whole thing which is a mix of shag, salsa and just whatever he thinks of next.  We all went out dancing afterwards and later found out one of our principals was out doing karaoke later than we were!
 
The next morning we were up early again for a brunch with Jane Goodall.  She does a lot of work with Roots and Shoots groups around the world and travels to Beijing every year to speak.  We were a group of 100 people and it was neat to see her in such a small venue.  We had lunch at the Bookworm and then she spoke to us for an hour about her experiences, her new books, and conservation.  She is 72 years old and so sharp!  We were laughing on the way there because we were so excited to see her but none of us could remember exactly what she had done.  Was it monkeys, apes, what?  She greeted us with a chimpanzee greeting and told us that even the monkeys have accents - just like us!
 
I get laughed at a good bit as many say Chinese and a southern accent don't quite mix - I don't know much Chinese but I can say that my "Australian" is getting much better.  I heard myself using the word "keen" yesterday.  As in - yeah, I'm keen on going to dinner tonight.  Or what a nutter that guy is to describe someone a little bit crazy.  Or bugger that!  Or how about my Australian nickname - these kiwis have a habit of dropping the last syllables of your name and adding a z somewhere - Lilza!  Instead of good morning - good day mate!  Instead of counting days until a big event, they count sleeps.  So for about two weeks Carolyn and I have had a countdown hanging and we rip a new sheet down each mornin.  She goes home to Australia the day after I leave and we have been counting sleeps - I only have 4 sleeps left!  And the list goes on and on...  at least I'll be able to travel easy if I ever go down under!  ;-)
 
So, I can't believe I have been here in China so long now - so much has changed.  I feel a little like I should go back to Beaufort and it should still be July - has all of this really happened?  And so fast!  Someone asked me in an email recently if I felt like I had changed a lot and I replied not really.  But I have been thinking about that and remembering that when I first moved here I didn't even want to cross the street by myself because I was so scared of getting hit by a car - or even worse - a bike!  I have seen so much and had so many experiences.  The people who said there would be really tough moments were being honest and I appreciate that - it hasn't all been laughs and goo dtimes.  But I am so glad I have done this - so thankful for the support from family and friends to get on that plane in July and just get here.  And I'm so thankful for all of the good friends I've made here - they are my family away from home - and even when we are driving each other a little crazy because we all spend so much time together I know that I can count on them when I need them.  I work with the funnest group of people and without a good sense of humor this just wouldn't be the same. 
 
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year - May the Lord bless and keep you - Talk to you in 2006!!!
 
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