just four weeks ago we were finishing up our last days before may break.  although spring break had just been three weeks before, we were still all really ready to get out of here!  the pollution had been bad, it was still cold and on and on ... 

 

we finished school on friday, went for a beer at the pommie and then out with friends for a little bit.  the following day i was up and at em trying to get packed for thailand.  kim, kendra and i flew out later that night around 10 pm for bangkok.  we arrived around 4 in the morning, bargained for a taxi and went straight to the hotel.  we had told the hotel we would be very late but we arrived even later than expected as our flight had been delayed.  they had given our room away!  back in a taxi and on to the next place - even though it was pretty nasty we were exhausted and slept easy. 

 

the next morning we awoke to blue skies, warm weather and BANGKOK!!!  we immediately went back to the other hotel because it was on Kosan St. full of hostels, bars, and backpackers from literally all over the world.  it is a pedestrian street and if you ever travel to bangkok i highly recommend the buddy lodge.  splurge for the best room - cheaper than a super 8 in the states but nicer than the holiday inn.  we had our own patio, beds for three and a pool on the roof.  stepping out of the hotel was a street full of people, pad thai vendors, fruit stands everywhere selling mango and pineapple and all the shopping anyone could ever want to do.

 

we spent the next four days following a strict daily schedule.  1.  sleep in  2.  go to breakfast  3.  go to pool  4.  do something cultural (the grand palace, temples, Chatachuk market, spa, river cruise, walking the many streets and side streets, shopping)  5.  nap  6.  shower and get ready for dinner  7.  bed

 

we were quite happy with our schedule.  all three of us just fell in love with bangkok.  it is gorgeous - tropical - and the food is unbelievable.  it seemed so easy going compared to beijing.  on the third day we all agreed that something was missing but couldn't seem to figure out what it was.  i know now that what we were missing was culture shock.  bangkok seemed quite easy after so many months living in asia.  the characters and language of course are different, the food is different, new atmosphere and way of live, but still asia and no culture shock.  maybe we are becoming world travelers after all... ;-) 

 

on the last day we took a tuk tuk (open air motor taxi) home the long way through china town.  we all perked up - it's funny to feel comfortable and at ease at the sight of a few chinese characters and red decorations in all the windows.  at 10 pm that night we left for the airport for a 1 am flight - don't think us irresponsible - we knew the flight would get us to work on time by 8 am the next day and we were right.  jerry (my favorite driver) was at the airport and he took us straight away to school.  no worries - a couple cups of coffee and a few math classes later i was on my way home for a nap with a tan and a new summer wardrobe in my bags.

 

i highly recommend thailand to anyone who ever has the chance to go.  i will be back next year and more if possible!

 

the following week frank (a fellow teacher) and i were on our way home from school.  it was one of the first really nice, warm days of spring (a little too late if you ask me) and he suggested going to the lake instead of home.  you don't have to twist my arm for these things and soon his wife and other friends met us.  we spent a lovely afternoon in the sun and on the way home when i went to pay for the taxi, i realized my wallet was gone. i paniced and rushed home to cancel all of the cards inside.

 

two days later i received a phone call from bju - the local expat hospital here in beijing.  two weeks ago i was taking a sip of my drink at a restaurant when a man bumped my elbow and cracked my left front tooth.  the whole bottom part cracked off and i was walking around for two days like a serious rugby player.  i scheduled an appointment with a wonderful dentist at bju (going to the dentist in china is a whole other story i can tell you about later if you want to hear...) and she fixed me right up.  anyways, i had left my wallet in the first taxi of the day at the lake - he had turned it into the police station - and they had found my receipt from the hospital, contacted them and they had contacted me!  funny how these things all work out.

 

so i left school that afternoon with kris to go get my wallet from the police station.  i had been told that no one there would speak english which turned out to not be entirely true - two gentlemen told us good morning as we entered.  they then snickered and pointed to two chairs by the window.  we sat down but i didn't think they knew who we were so i got up to try to explain - immediately they pointed back to the chairs.  ok.  out came the captain (or boss of some type) with a wallet stapled in a brown envelope.  he motioned us over and slowly undid the envelope.  he then started to take things out one by one and slammed them on the counter.  each time he would take something out he would look at it, look at me, shrug his shoulders and then say God only knows what.  the other six police in the station would laugh hysterically and then he would go for the next thing.  i was actually enjoying myself and i asked kris if she thought i was getting some type of public scolding.  she said she was pretty sure of it and asked me to look sorry.  i was probalby getting insulted left and right but when you understand absolutely nothing it just doesn't have the same effect.  i just kept smiling and once everything had been taken out (including my sc drivers license, copy of my passport and all of my money) the captain pushed everything over to the side of the counter for me to put away.  he shook his head, shot me a smile and left the room.  although there were no smoking signs everywhere several of the men were smoking and offered kris and i one.  no thanks - i'm getting out of here!

 

hopefully that's my only trip to the beijing police but at least it's good to know the taxi drivers are honest - and i hope in some way rewarded!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

over a month ago now (where did that month go?) spring break arrived and mama and mrs. betty along with it.  i left on the monday of break for the airport.  i had been very specific about their entry into china.  the airport is typically very crowded, there are several forms to fill out at a few different places and customs can take ages.  it is hard to find a cart and there is no one there to help with baggage so i had encouraged them to pack light.  i waited with anticipation for them to emerge from the luggage room and finally they did... but with no bags!  they came smiling down the walkway - so happy - and i asked them immediately where there things were.  mama replied - oh he has it. here came a sweet chinese man with their things.   they had made a friend already in china and found someone to bring their bags for them.  this was only the beginning of days and days of stories! 

 

we flew out the next afternoon for the yangtze river cruise which proved to be not only relaxing but informative and more than a little sad as well.  i'll tell you all about it when i get home but basically a lot of people are losing homes that their families have lived in for up to seven generations.  in the afternoons we drove through these villages and everything has been taken from the homes - including the front doors - to the new apartment buildings that the government has built for them to move into.  we met a lot of nice people on the cruise and enjoyed four days of just catching up with each other. 

 

when we returned to beijing we had a whirlwind ten days of shopping, touring, dinners, friends, seeing schools and tons else.  we visited a small school in the village by isb and then went to a boarding school nearby where parents can begin boarding their children at age two!  i enjoyed showing mama and betty ann off at my own school where friends i have had since day one here were so excited to meet them.  i threw a small party for them one sunday afternoon where over 40 of my friends stopped by to say hello.  and the best night - they spent all afternoon cooking fried chicken, mac and cheese, green beans, cucumber salad, potato salad, deviled eggs, crab dip and a birthday cake for me and my closest friends!

 

these two got pretty good at bargaining in the markets and even surprised xiao wei (local tour guide and friend) with their prices!  he was quite impressed.  and they enjoyed leftovers from the dinner with xiao wei on top of the great wall.  they have now hiked more of the wall than me!!!

 

the two weeks passed too quickly and before i knew it we were back at the airport.  it was sooooo hard to say goodbye after they had been here and we had such a good time.  my kitchen looked like mamas had been here - my apartment had been full of people - i had a great time and now it was ending all too quickly.  even though i knew i would be going home in just two and a half months - that seemed way too long.  i kept reminding myself that spring would be here soon and another break in may not too far behind.

 

but i woke up the next morning to cold weather and my first beijing dust storm.  there was literally a half inch of dirt covering everything - little did i know that was the beginning of many and warm weather was still over a month away!  since then i have traveled to bangkok - will write about that this week - spent more time getting ready for our first gig this week - and now only five weeks until my first year in beijing is done!  i can't believe how fast this first year has gone.  i will be seeing ya'll soon and in the meantime... ask mama about the hookah! 

it's 1:30 pm, monday afternoon, the first day of spring break, and mama and betty ann will be landing in approximately two hours here in beijing.  i am soooooooo excited!  i have a full two weeks planned for them but there is so much to see and do and i want them to see it all!

 

the last weeks here have been eventful.  awhile ago i walked into the popular expat grocery across the street called april gourmet.  the second i walked in one of the cashier girls came running up to me "yellow carrot, yellow carrot" - i had absolutely no idea what she was talking about.  she grabbed my arm and walked me over to the vegetables. 

 

one of the many services of this grocery is that you can call and order groceries for delivery.  i'm not sure if she had gotten confused with the order or something called a yellow carrot really exists but i wasn't much help.  i showed her orange carrots, yellow peppers, bananas???  the only westerner around i offered to call the lady who had ordered the groceries but as i didn't know how to make my offer in chinese, still wasn't much help. 

 

but these experiences are always good for a laugh.  and we still laugh everytime i go in for milk or whatever.  and still i've seen no yellow carrots - but if you know what one is - let me know and i will take one to her!

 

two weeks ago karen, the bass player in a girl teacher band called principle of yin, asked if i would like to join as rhythm guitarist.  theirs had quit and they were looking for someone.  sure!  i explained it had been a long time since i had played but that i knew a good number of chords and would be willing to try.  as the band is made up of beginning musicians i thought it sounded like fun.  the first practice went well but at the end of it karen asked me to tell her about the band i had been in in college.  i've never been in any band i said and everyone looked up.  oh she said - i must have had you mixed up with someone else!  :)  i think they asked the wrong person but it has been for the bestf.  i had forgotten how much i love playing music.  we have a gig on may 13 at some outdoor festival and we are working on seven different songs for the big debut.  we will have a picture made soon which of course will be posted here for your viewing pleasure.  ;-) 

 

the following saturday, anke our drummer and her husband took me down to instrument street so i could buy a used guitar and amp.  it was fun going from shop to shop, bargaining for instruments and supplies and i finally found MY guitar - and i love it.  the owner threw in some pics, a new set of strings and a bag for free and i have been practicing a lot ever since.  they have lots of violins for sell there too so you never know...

 

later that afternoon my friend ashley flew into beijing.  ashley was a good friend of kristin's when she lived in new york and we would always hang out when i went to visit.  a fellow southerner, ashley is originally from charleston.  she has been in hong kong for six weeks and stopped by beijing for three days before going back to the big apple.  it was so good to see her!  we had a full three days of dinners at the red rose and peking duck, a trip to the great wall, and of course massage.  she will be back on business again in the fall and i hope she will be able to come back - and kristin you need to come with her!  :)

 

hope all is well - i will post more pictures soon - going soon to get mama!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

so, i have now been back in beijing for almost a week now and i have completely recovered from jet lag.  well, almost... 

 

three weeks in beaufort just wasn't quite enough.  i arrived very late on a friday mid-december and spent my entire first week sleeping and eating.  literally.  i was asleep every night by 7 or 8, awake by 6 am in time to have breakfast with my parents (they cooked breakfast - every morning!) spend some time reading, checking emails, do a little shopping for things i can't find in china and time for a nap!  dinner with the family and ready for bed again.  i slept more in my first week back in beaufort than i think i slept my entire first semester here in beijing.  but the sleep was sweet and much needed.  christmas day came and it was so nice to be in church with my family that day and then lunch, presents, nap :-), went to watch sam kick, dinner and an all around perfect day.

 

after christmas, i spent more quality time with my family and friends.  we had a back yard oyster roast one night with premium oysters, chili and frogmore stew - nice fire and good friends.  i got to see the beaufort high lady eagles play and enjoyed a nice visit with angelica the next day.  it was so good to see all my friends from beaufort high - i miss working with them. 

 

i took in some good ole american movies and spent as much time with my nephews as i could.  jaxon is completely amazing - i enjoy one on one time with him as he is as cool as any of my friends could ever be.  :-) miles is as precious as ever captivating you immediately with those big blue eyes and braydon - well, you just fall in love with him at first sight!  i couldn't get enough of them. 

 

my siblings aren't doing bad either.  jim and shay are doing good.  liesle is still enjoying her big business on bay street at the barbershop, laura is having fun being mama and sam is gorgeous as always.  he made the all area team for football and i am sooooooo proud of him!  i got to see him kick on christmas day and even though i loved the moment it made me a little sad to think of all those games i've missed.  i got to visit with mama and daddy lots and i am so thankful for all the support they have given me in this endeavor.

 

all too soon i was on a plane back to beijing and after my fair share of tears at the charleston airport i felt somewhat ready to get back.  that feeling stayed with me on the plane as i wrote my reports for students for report cards on my lap top all the way to beijing.  there were some college students on the plane coming for a semester abroad and i could relate to the anticipation in their eyes.  i had fun sharing stories and giving advice of what (and especially what not) to try.  i was excited to see everyone again and happy to be back in china - until i got off the plane.  and then all of a sudden i was back in dusty smoky spicy overwhelming china.  but as all things are a learning experience i now know that coming back just takes some time to adjust.  i felt it in october and here again after christmas.  somehow my bed got much harder over the break and none of my clothes fit.  who has been changing things in my apartment?  ;-)

 

alicia had been on the same flight as me and we immediately dropped our stuff off, showered, and then went for sezchuan and massage.  i slept perfectly through that night and woke up thinking well, there's nothing to this - i don't have one bit of jet lag.  i made it energetically through my first day back at school and through practice.  that night i went to frank and emily's for dinner and felt good until i ate.  and then i hit my brick wall.  i always look forward to the good food and company on monday's but on this particular night and i had to eat and run.  i made it home as quickly as i could and hopped right into bed - i didn't even take my coat off! 

 

i was up by 4 am the next morning and the rest of my week was pretty much just that.  making it through every bit of the day that had to be done before i could come home and crash.  and i realized that sometimes jet lag isn't such a bad thing.  i have been wide awake for school every day this week and i am so tired by the end of the day that i don't have too much time to think about how much i miss and love my family.  and i miss and love them much!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

after practice on friday i went to dinner at a mexican place with kim, frank and emily and later barry met us at a place called the goose and duck.  now this is where you go if you are homesick.  it is a traditional irish bar but everything about it screams america - including the clientale.  saturday morning i had practice and then i met carey and barry at the big flower market.  much to my delight my first purchase was an orange tree.  yep, that's right - an orange tree.  china has these great mini-oranges, smaller than a mandarine.  and the tree is small as well, not quite as tall as me.  i was so excited as i remember all those florida orange trees from my childhood.  i bargained to a better price than i was expecting and wandered on to see what else i could find.  a few purchases later i came back to have my tree delivered.  when i told barry how cheap i had gotten the tree he asked me if i had tried one yet.   well, no i haven't.  he plucked one and began peeling.  as he was peeling the orange the vendors in the market all started watching.  they were even tapping shoulders of others to get them to turn and watch.  this isn't looking good i was thinking but too late now.  barry took one bite and all the people started laughing and saying "sour, sour" these things are more sour than a lemon!  you didn't tell me that before i bought it i said and they were laughing more.  can i trade it... no!  how can fruit that looks so much alike taste so different.  these people make me laugh.  and i make them laugh so i guess it all works out.  but i must say i love my new tree, sour or not, and i was thinking through the whole thing, it's ok to be back here.  good ole china - i feel good with it.

 

we walked our plants outside to a little white mini-van and one of the laughers drove us home with our new plants.  afterwards barry and i went to lunch at a restaurant where the specialty was silk worm among other things.  we settled for hot pot and then went to an antique furniture market.  i bought a cool kitchen table with chairs as i feel more like nesting now and i am quite happy with my new purchase. 

 

tonight i went for dinner with ghasson and jennifer, kris and barry and some more friends.  as ghasson is italian and we were in an italian restaurant we were given no menus.  he told the chef to bring us his best things and that is what we got.  another great meal.  ghasson keeps promising us he is going to take us all to tuscany and you all know i will be the first to commit to that!  i still think i may end up in italy one day.

 

so that is all for now - i am feeling much better about being back and am looking forward to a weekend in shanghai in just 5 days!  i will write again when i get back.  hope all is well, take care and i am missing all of you already!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

So, a lot has happened since I last wrote.  I'll try to remember as much as I can although I must say, I am going home in just 8 days and that seems to be all I can really think about!  :)

 

About 3 weeks ago I went to the Latin Ball.  If you read the entry about the British Ball you don't really need to read this paragraph - same gig, different night.  With exceptions of course.  Better music at the Latin Ball claro que si and it was great to be able to practice a little of my spanish - what i remember of it that is.  A little "hola" here and "que guapo" there - all in all a good time!  I had a red silk dress made for the occasion at Jiao Shao - the clothing market about 2 blocks from my house.  Not as fancy as the silk market but with all the same fixins and you can bargain your little heart out just the same.  I knew I wanted a red dress from the start but the day I went to meet the tailor to pick a dress I just wasn't in the mood and picked the first style I saw.  When I went back for the first fitting I had just been looking at a month old US magazine that had been passed around about 50 times (those magazines are like gold here) and what little fashion sense I have kicked in and I had them almost completely change the dress.  I must say I was happy with the end product - I had a necklace made at the pearl market and before you know it- whalah - ready for the big dance.  And we had fun dancing - we made it to the stage and everything!

 

The next weekend was the Great Wall Shoot out at school and Thanksgiving.  The Great Wall Tournament is an annual cultural exhange where other international schools come to Beijing to play basketball in the afternoon and evening after a full morning of chinese culture - either at the Great Wall or the Forbidden City.  We lost our first three games and I started feeling just a little down in the dumps.  It was Thanksgiving weekend after all and I was missin my family like crazy.  But we managed to pull off the last three games - finally showed up to play - and finished the whole tournament in third place.  For that place we beat a team who had beat us by 15 points previously.  The girls needed it, the coaches needed it, and the team improved so much over the three days that I left feeling like we had won first place.

 

The tournament began on Thursday and I lucked out because the church I have attended out in Shunyi some was having a Thanksgiving potluck at the school.  So I was able to go down to the cafeteria between games for some turkey, mashed potatoes, tea, mac and cheese, and some chinese food too of course.  The fellowship was good but I couldn't stay as I had to get back up to the gym.  On Saturday I had been invited to Holly and Biggies' for Thanksgiving (they are from NC) but I couldn't go because of where we placed for the final games.  No worries - that night there was a second Thanksgiving dinner in the cafeteria at school for all the teams.  Two thanksgivings in a school cafeteria - what more can you ask for.

 

Sunday I went to a champagne brunch at the St. Regis for Ghassaun's birthday.  Champagne before noon can be dangerous but I ate all the oysters and shrimp I could to still save room for yet another Thanksgiving festivity at Frank and Emily's.  I made mac and cheese for this one and to get in the door you had to bring one non'American.  My ticket was Barry - and by the time we got there from brunch the people were having fun to say the least.  I saw teachers eating turkey from the bone, dancing on the couches... plenty of wine and good food to be had by all.  A little different than home but I had a blast. 

 

But through all the activity I kept thinking about my first Thanksgiving away - up in Vermont - when I cooked for so many people and our friends came up from Beaufort.  And I kept thinking about talking to my family in the middle of the night on Thursday - so I could talk to them during their Thanksgiving day.  And through all the fun here I must say...

3 Thanksgivings + 1 champagne brunch + 1 Great Wall Shoot Out does not = Thanksgiving at home!

I will see you in 8 days!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

So, I have been busy writing writing about "big" events here and there and thought it high time I write some about the daily life here in China - answering some of the questions you have been asking me in emails about the food, politics, religion, etc.  I'll write what I can - I am living in a communist country so some stories will be better saved for later.

 

Tonight I met Barry after Chinese to go see the big square at night.  It is gorgeous by the way - all lights - and returning home I decided to try out the subway BY MYSELF!  All these things that seem so simple to most of you are slightly bigger deals here but every once in awhile I feel this need for independence and a new experience - and this one only costs 3 kwai!  Two wrong turns and three subway tickets later I finally made it to my stop and started walking home.  It is about a 15 minute walk but I feel very safe here at night as the streets are fully lighted with street lights, lanterns, strings of lights.  The streets are full of people and vendors.  I pass fruit stands full of oranges and some fruits unrecognizable, herb stands, a vendor selling steemed sweet potatoes, a group of five playing cards on the street, a plethora of restaurants and of course...  DVD stands!  I pass McDonald's and I am half way home.  More restaurants, a few hair salons, a dog or two and I am at my street.  Haven't seen another louwai (non-Asian) since I left the subway which by the way I am starting to appreciate.  Makes living here feel much more daring.  So now that I have the subway "mastered" I'll take it more often until it gets too cold - I am already in my winter coat but if it gets much colder I'll take the comforts of a heated taxi thank you!

 

To those of you who have asked about politics here I have much to tell you.  Unfortunately it will have to wait until I see you next - no freedom of speech here.  Friends of mine went to N. Korea over October break and the stories they told upon returning were amazing.  Telling about a country with no fruit - can't even imagine!  They weren't allowed to leave the hotel without their guide, and everything about the country has been planned.  They all leave school and work around 2 every day to meet in the stadium there for mass games - a series of nationalistic songs and dances.  My friends tried to take the subway twice but each time the guide took them in at the same place and they could only go one stop.  The same people in the same clothes doing the same thing as the day before were all there and it is believed that this is really an underground bomb shelter.  The only books they could find there in English were about American imperialists and how they have ruined Asia or books about Japanese cannabilism during war times.  The people are so oppressed my friends said they couldn't wait to get back to China to enjoy the "free world" again - I can't really write much more than this but as I said before - already I have plenty of stories.  Big Brother is alive and well and I can tell you much about him!

 

I am still enjoying the food although I must admit I only have chinese about once a week - and that is generally in the school cafeteria.  There are just so many other choices in a city this size.  Last night I went to a chef dinner - that's the thing to do here.  You hire a professional chef to come to your place and cook all day for however many friends are coming over.  The meals are always western (well the two I have been to) and always quite nice.  My friend Karen invited me to hers last night and we had steak thank you very much.  I'm missing red meat like crazy.  I did have my tutor teach me how to order my favorite things in restaurants with no menus in English but you have to be careful...  with four tones for each word (for instance shou can be said four different ways and means teacher but i often tell people i am a rat!) you have to be careful what you say.  I tend to stear clear of anything with meat in these places as on Sunday morning I ended up with chicken feet!

 

I took a driving test on Saturday morning with 36 other employees from the school.  We had been told to study but not for me - too busy - and I was regretting that like crazy around 9 am Sat. morning.  We went into a very official looking building into a very official looking room - almost like a courtroom.  They had bottled water out for us and paparazzi everywhere!  There were pictures of us in the newspapers the next day as they had given the test on paper in four different languages.  It was quite a show - they showed a short movie in Chinese and then in English on the future roads of Beijing and then it was time for the test.  The test was difficult as the translation was not great and of each of the three choices listed you were constantly thinking - (a) would match the rules in the states - (b) would match what actually happens on the roads here which is pretty much chaos - (c) probably the right answer.  Take a look...

 

1.  For an open abdominal wound, such as protrusion of the small intestine tube, we should:

     a.  put it back

     b.  no treatment

     c.  not put it back, but cover it with a bowl of jar, and bind the bowl or jar with a cloth belt.

 

2.  In summer, when a driver drives a vehicle he can

     a.  wear a pair of slippers.

     b.  not wear slippers since it's unsafe and impolite to wear them

     c.  wear any shoes, including slippers.

 

3.  What should a driver do when he needs to spit while driving?

     a.  spit through the window

     b.  spit into a piece of waste paper, then put it into a garbage can

     c.  spit on the floor of the vehicle

 

4.  After quarrelling with others, a driver:

     a.  can drive the vehicle only after calming down

     b.  should fight the person with whom there is a disagreement, and let the situation affect his driving

     c.  drive with rage.

 

Answers:  C     B     B     A

 

How did you do?  We had been told to be very respectful during the test so we couldn' laugh at seeing some of these - the questions asking about signs in chinese i had to totally guess of course and for those that actually asked about rules of the roads - from my observation there are none whatsoever!  To get your license you have to get 90% correct which I don't think I even came close but it was worth it to go just for the experience!

 

Ok, 11:20 pm here on Tuesday (Xing qi er) night.  (Just learned my days of the week) and time for bed.  Sweet dreams!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Adjusting to Sanlitun

 

This coming Saturday I will attend my first British Masquerade Ball in Beijing.  I say first because it is my first ball in Beijing and my first British ball and my first Masquerade ball as well.  Hmmm…

 

So, to prepare masks and practice eating ;-) one teacher who is going had us over to her apartment last Sunday night for dinner.  Her parents were in town along with her aunt (who graciously did all the home cooking for us) and we enjoyed a night of great food, good wine and oh well – no mask making.  But it was SO nice to sit around a dinner table with a family even though it wasn’t mine.  We laughed for hours and although it doesn’t compare with being with my own family, the company was great.  And she has an awesome apartment with a view of Beijing that is to die for.

 

On Monday I stayed too late in Shunyi (Chinese lessons and dinner with Bebe) and found myself at the clubhouse looking for a taxi at 9:30.  Is this really too late?  For a ride home to Sanlitun it is.  No worries – the front desk said they would call me an illegal taxi.  Luckily enough it was the same illegal driver I had had the week before and who I would have again on Thursday after a late basketball meeting.  So it goes, I have a new friend in Beijing.  And I actually like this driver more than the legal ones because he already knows where I’m going.  He gave me his business card which is a great resource – except that if I call him I have no way to tell him who I am, where I am or where I want to go!

 

Wednesday night a group of us went to a Thai restaurant down the road called the Banana Leaf.  There was much singing and dancing as a Philippino band performs the entire time.  They will pull you up to dance even while eating.  I had much fun followed by a trip to a jazz bar called The Big Easy.  All musts if you come to visit.  And this night allowed for one more exotic food – shrimp heads!  Yep, that’s right – shrimp heads… they just chop the body off for someone who actually knows what they’re ordering and fry the heads up for dummies like me who grab the menu and point at something!

 

Friday brought a nice swim after school followed by a birthday party for Travis Tebo, another new teacher this year.  He and his wife ordered pizza, served drinks and played plenty of 80’s music as there was an 80’s party following that night at the Pomegranate.  We had a ball dancing and getting ready for the party.  It is amazing how much frosted pink lip stick and the right music can take you back to your first dance, junior high and dreams of your first kiss.  We later caught a cab to the village for the party at the Pomegranate (a “sports” bar in the village owned by teachers of ISB) where two bands made of teachers from ISB were playing along with a DJ – plenty of 80’s music to go around.  I felt like I was at a 70’s Sigma Nu tailgate all over again – one decade of a costume later!!! 

 

Saturday morning I was up bright and early to go market shopping with my new friend Annie.  Annie is a native Beijinger and is dating an English teacher from ISB.  She said she had a great market to take me to – very cheap and no louwai’s (expats) so no bargaining either.  This place wholesales to the markets we go to.  It is open from 3 am to 3 pm daily and this place… if you don’t like shopping this is your ultimate nightmare.  There are people pushing and shoving in every direction, shouting from stall to stall and best yet - occasionally your foot gets run over by a little man with a cart selling corn on the cob.  Annie is the person to shop with as Chinese is her first language and she knows where to go to get what you need.  I got two winter coats (from a stall who wholesales to Russia so they had my size – nice, thick down winter coats and one is ZARA!), a pair of shoes, two pairs of thick gloves, six pairs of socks and a pair of earrings for 415 kwai – oh, about $50!  This would have cost me close to $600 in the states and even here in a typical market – close to $100.  So I really got a deal and an experience to go with it.

 

Sunday I went to the Lama Temple in the morning with Barry, Bebe, Kris and Kendra.  Very pretty but to tell you the truth – I don’t really get it.  All the big Buddha’s and everything – they are neat to see though.  One is 24 meters tall and was in the Guinness Book of World Records until a few years ago.  There were monks everywhere.  What I don’t get is how this exists in a communist country where religion is pretty much forbidden.  But it exists, I was there and then we went for dim sum, which is the traditional Sunday lunch here.

 

Afterwards I spent some time learning my way around my hood here in Sanlitun.  Much to see and do.  I stopped at a Chinese grocery store on the way home just to see what I could see and was hovering over a big bowl of…  something when I heard a voice behind me ask “are you really contemplating buying some of that?”  I turned around to find a man laughing at me.  No, I replied – just looking.  Turns out he is here on business from New Zealand and we talked for a while.  To my amazement I was able to tell him several must sees in Beijing and also some easier ways for him to get around, etc.  As I was walking home from the store I freaked out a little bit – how did I get here?  How do I know where to go in Beijing, China?  How can I help someone else find where he or she is going?  A little culture shock I guess…

 

As I entered my apartment building, the guard recognized me and opened the door for me without me having to show my card.  Now I know this seems to be no big deal but for a little southern girl in a big Asian city of 15 million – to be recognized is a damn good feeling and one I wouldn’t trade for anything.  We are now having morning conversations on my way to school, the guard and I  (as well as I can anyways) and I feel like I have a new best friend.  Someone looking out for me and a good reason to practice and study more Chinese. 

Xia jian!!!

Who’s that girl?

 

So, I woke up yesterday morning (Saturday) and decided I hadn’t had enough changes in my life lately – that I needed one more.  So I got my Insider’s Guide for Beijing out and looked up hair salons.  Don’t get me wrong – there are salons and nail places on every corner here – but I wanted one where possibly someone spoke a little English.  There were four listed so I called the one I thought would be closest.

 

I was expecting to make an appointment but was asked from the other end if I could be there in 5 minutes.  Not a busy day for them I guess.  I told them I could be there in an hour as I had no idea where I was actually going.  I got dressed, caught a cab and was on my way.  I had left my name with the girl on the phone so I was surprised when I got there and they didn’t have me written in the books.  Speaking on the phone is much harder with a language barrier so I didn’t worry at first – however they couldn’t find even anything close to my name.  About that time we both realized what had happened – being new to Beijing I hadn’t noticed the difference between Guanghuaxili Beilou and Guanghua Beilou.  How could I have made that mistake??? 

 

Well, no worries.  I was at the wrong place but they had time so I decided to stay.  And then the questions began – what did I want – who would I like my stylist to be – I had five Chinese stylists and one translator standing above me asking me question after question.  It all felt quite overwhelming so I decided to go for the senior stylist (100 kwai more - $12) and told the translator he could do whatever he wanted – cut, color, perm – I don’t care!  The translator told the stylist and he turned to me with the stylists response…  “really???”  yes!  Just please get started. 

 

I think I made his day and four hours later, after having no less than two people working on me at a time I left the salon looking quite different than when I had walked in.  I’ve never been this blond in my life but when you say to a stylist - do what you want – you can’t complain about the outcome.  For two summers in Spain I have craved the fancy layers all the girls have and alas, finally they are mine as well.  I have no idea of course what this will actually look like once I have to wash and style it myself but it is fun for now.  I’m enjoying the compliments and it is fun walking by a mirror as I first don’t recognize myself.  Well, just another day in Beijing. 

 

After that I met my friend Barry for lunch and coffee, went to my friend George’s later to check out his apartment (I want ideas for my own) and then last night a dinner with friends.  They went out dancing but I didn’t feel up to it – I’ll catch them next time! 

 

Tonight I have a dinner with the teachers I will attend the British Ball with in two weeks.  It is a masquerade so we will be making masks after dinner.  I went to a tailor this morning to be sized for a dress – I am having something fancy made to match my new dew!  I absolutely love my weekends here when I have time to explore the city and most importantly – some time to myself.  I can’t imagine how busy I will be once basketball starts.  Our two traveling tournaments have been finalized – one in Shanghai and the other in Kobe, Japan.  Definitely something to look forward to after Christmas break! 

 

At exactly 3:25 on Friday, September 30 fall break started and I left school immediately.  I had a hired driver who was to pick me up behind the school to try to avoid traffic to get me to the airport quickly as my flight to see Castro in Dubai was leaving at 5:30.  I waited and waited and finally at 3:45 the black car I was expecting arrived – he stuck his head out the window and asked “Airport?” Yes!

 

About a mile from the airport he reached his hand to the back seat asking for his money ahead of time.  I knew immediately that I was with an illegal driver.  Are you Mr. Wang I asked?  Nope – and I had gotten in the wrong car with the wrong man.  No worries – he got me to the airport in time and before I knew it I had boarded an Air China plane to take me for my first trip to the Middle East.

 

Nine hours later I arrived in a completely clean and modern city.  It was good to see Castro after two months and I was so excited to share stories of my new experiences in China.

 

As the UAE is a Muslim country their workweek begins on Saturday and ends on Wednesday.  So Castro went straight to work the first day I was there.  After being in China for a while, Dubai seemed quite easy.  Everyone speaks English, the city was clean, there are toilets everywhere, I recognized some of the food, could read the menus, etc.  Ahh…  back to civilization!  Dubai is the second fastest growing city in the world (second to Beijing that is) and they have entire areas of the city already planned to be finished by 2008.  Transportation is smooth – and already they are planning to have the tallest building in the world as well as to be called the shopping capital of the world.  It’s amazing what a little forethought can do for a city – as opposed to the 24/7 construction happening here to a purpose no one quite knows.

 

Wasting no time I immediately left in search for the nearest Starbucks.  After a cappuccino and some time at an Internet café I ventured on a walk to the creek.  This seems to be where everything’s happenin – plenty of people and things to see.  This is in the older part of the city – Burg Dubai – lots of character compared to the newer parts. 

 

Once at the creek a man called me over to his water taxi so I took a 30-minute tour.  Being from the coast, to be back on the water was perfect and exactly what I had been needing – even halfway around the world, the water still feels like home.  After the tour I went to a Thai restaurant for lunch and then to a cloth souk.  Afterwards I went to the Dubai Museum for a history of the famous trading city.  A quick swim in the pool and Castro was home but not for long as he runs in the park on Saturdays.  Later that night I met Castro’s good friends Ellen and Brad – new teachers and neighbors in his apartment building.  They are both American and Ellen is from Virginia – so at least with a southern girl around I know Castro is in good hands!

On Sunday I went to the Jumeira mosque for a tour.  As I was not dressed appropriately (shoulders and knees were showing) I had to put on a full cover as well as cover my head.  The tour was interesting – the tour guide was actually Spanish and had found the Muslim faith in Switzerland.  She answered questions and explained a lot about the Muslim faith as well as the culture that typically surrounds the faith.  Afterwards I crossed the street for a Japanese lunch and then ventured off to the beach.  I have now taken a swim in the Persian Gulf, which has water clearer than Bermuda!

 

I went to the mall for a while and they had ZARA so I was quite happy there.  Once Castro was done with school we took a stroll down to the creek for a nice dinner with hookah pipe and all.  Castro decided his outfit needed touching up and bought a full cover along with headgear.  I thought it would be just for a joke but he went to dinner that way too and we had the best time laughing at the people laughing at him.  Only Castro… he’s always been able to take things to the next level!

 

I spent the rest of the school days shopping, at the pool or at the beach.  On Monday after school Castro took me to the Madinat Jumeirah, which has a large souk, a view to die for and beers almost as big as the Burj Al Arab!  This is where he and his friends go for happy hour on Friday.  A little different than Tsingtao at the Pomegranate!  We watched the sun go down over the coast which was absolutely beautiful before touring by foot another nearby hotel.

 

On Tuesday after school Castro took me for tea at the Burj Al Arab… hello!  Brad and Angelina had just been there last week!  Not that we like Brad anymore but anyways – it was so NEAT!  It is the only 6 star hotel in the world.  Everything inside was beautiful and they greet you at the door with rose water.  There are fountains everywhere – gold – marble – you name it they have it.  Nothing has gone undone there – they have thought of everything.  We went up to the 27^th floor for tea and it was delicious – Castro had a Moroccan tea and I had Earl Gray.  We had small sandwiches, cakes and scones and again – another beautiful sunset.  We enjoyed our time visiting and taking tons of pictures!  Outside one of the windows you can see a fake island they are building of a palmetto tree.  It is so large you can see it from the moon.  They are building another palmetto tree soon and an island with split parts so that it will look like the earth. You can buy one of the islands, travel there by boat, and have your own island getaway in the Persian Gulf.   These people are loaded!

 

It was so nice to be treated like royalty at the Burj and I must say my friends here in China who have heard of the place are quite jealous as they all got E. Coli on a bike trip to southern China.  Well, such is life!

 

On Saturday we went on a desert safari!  Traveling in a jeep to the desert we stopped so the drivers could take the air out of the tires so they wouldn’t go flat on the dunes.  We then took a roller coaster ride in the jeep through the dunes and I have no idea how we did not tip over.  A lot of the teachers went – I think 12 of us in all, and pictures can’t capture the feel of it.  We were even sliding sometimes.  It was funny though – we were all very scared at first and after awhile, we resumed our normal conversations as if we were on a 2 lane back road in Hampton. 

 

After the ride we went to a traditional Arabic camp where we took camel rides (seriously! – I loved it!!!) and then had dinner, shisha and henna tattoos.  Some time looking at the night sky which was so gorgeous to my eyes after not seeing a sky like that in some time, well since Inner Mongolia to be exact.  A jeep ride back and then Castro and I went for a beer.  A great day – not only did I enjoy the desert, the camel ride, everything, but I also enjoyed the company – I’m glad Castro has so many good friends here.

 

Friday we took a walk back to the creek and as Ramadan had started on Wednesday we could not eat, drink or chew gum in public.  All the restaurants were closed and we tried to see the gold souk but as Friday is their holy day everything was closed.  So I packed, we went for dinner and soon we were saying goodbye at the airport.  Oh, I can’t tell you how much I didn’t want to leave the comforts of being with someone I am so comfortable with, being in a clean, English fluent city, being in the world as I know it.  It was a long trip back to China and to be completely honest, I wasn’t enthusiastically looking forward to coming “home.”  But now that I have been back for a couple of weeks, my eyes are used to these sights again, my ears the sharp tones of the language, and my stomach, unfortunately, the food!

 

Thanks Castro for being such a great host!!!  I hope to go back once you have your bike and you and your friends are always welcome in China…

 

Well hello again and a lot has happened since I last wrote.  In fact, five days from now I will have a new home in China!!! 

 

A couple of weeks ago I went for dinner with a few friends in the city.  The girl I rode to town with (Zerlina) had an appointment so she gave me directions to a DVD store where I could shop until she was finished.  I never made it to the DVD store because I found a great furniture shop on the way called DARA.  They have the most beautiful pieces and I found a couch that was the most comfortable thing I had sat on since I came to China!  I wanted it so badly but had a dilemma – it wouldn’t fit in the two bedroom apartment I was living in at Capital Paradise.  I had seen a three bedroom apartment but it wasn’t very nice and I knew that the following year I wanted to live in the city.  Would they let me have my own furniture there or would it be furnished?  Where was I going to live?  What should I do – I really wanted that couch.  And as I don’t know how long I will live here in Beijing I started thinking – I need to get into this city as soon as possible. 

 

After dinner that night my thoughts were confirmed.  All three friends hopped in their cars to go home and they pointed me in the direction of a good place to catch a cab.  I was too embarrassed to tell them I had never been in a taxi by myself before, much less in a foreign city of 13 million people.  Thirty minutes later it had started to rain and I was still standing on that corner.  Most of the cabs wouldn’t stop for me and when they would they wouldn’t take me when they found out how far out of the city I needed to go.  An older man finally came over to me, grabbed my arm and walked me down the street a bit.  He called a cab over when he saw one, said something to the man and pushed me in the car.  I had to rely on my own directions and minimal Chinese to direct the driver all the way back out to Shunyi.  But this turned out to be the best experience I had had in China so far.  I prayed through the whole of it and was never scared or worried.  Wet and tired – yes, but I knew one way or another I would make it home that night.  And all of a sudden I remembered why I had moved here in the first place – for the challenge and the culture and all of those new experiences and opportunities that are just waiting to be discovered.  I made myself sleep on my decision to move into the city but the next morning I woke up completely excited and prayed – if you don’t want this for me God – just take it from me and make the move too hard.  Well, I loved the first apartment I saw, the school agreed to the place, I had an offer that day from a friend who said she and her daughter would help me move and someone has already offered to drive me to school in the mornings.  This is meant to be!!!  And I did it all in less than a week.  Don’t get me wrong – I am very nervous as I know my “easy” days in China are over.  Life on the compound is just as easy if not easier than life in Beaufort.  But I am looking forward to it and I will be moving this Thursday!!!  I will be living in an apartment complex called Lian Bao and it is in a section of the city called Sanlitun.  It is right in the middle of all the action – tons of restaurants, clubs, shops, the silk market – and I can see inside the stadium from my bedroom window.  I will be on the 17^th floor!  So for those of you coming to visit, you will now have a much more exciting place to stay!!!

 

Until the move, I am making the most of “country” living.  Riding my bike to school everyday and spending some time in the little village here when I can.  It is the harvest season now so half of our roads are covered in corn – I keep forgetting my camera.  It is funny to see all that corn drying out.  I have no idea what they are going to do with it – still trying to figure that one out.

 

We only had three days of school this week because there was a water leak in a pipe out here in Shunyi so we were without water Monday and Tuesday.  No water – no school – and these things take a long time to fix in China.  On Monday I got tons of school work done and on Tuesday we didn’t get the call for no school until 6:30 so we all went to an “American” diner called Steak and Eggs for breakfast.  Did some shopping for my new apartment and then came home that night, fixed a box of Kraft Mac and Cheese and watched Dukes of Hazard.  The DVD’s are fun here because as soon as they are on the movies at home – they are on DVD here.  Completely legal of course!!!  ;-)

 

I think that’s all for now folks – I miss the US, I miss football and I miss all of you!  Hope you are well – I’m looking everyday for a ticket home for Christmas – I’ll let you know if I find one!!!

Last Thursday was our Back to School night here at ISB.  I was a little nervous as I hadn’t met any of my students’ parents yet.  Parents followed their students’ schedules and had 10 minutes with each teacher so that the teacher can introduce him/herself and tell some about the class.  I had so many staff members in my presentations – that made me a little nervous.  But overall the night went well, no questions I couldn’t answer – nice parents!  Well, for now!!! 

 

On Friday I packed and went with a group of 15 to Inner Mongolia.  We went to the west side of Beijing to catch an overnight train.  This was an experience in itself.  First - if you can’t imagine using a squatter – a squatter on a train is even more difficult.  There were no seats – just rows and rows of beds.  All was spoken in Chinese so we were surprised when at 11 pm the lights went out and we were scrambling in the night to find our places.  I didn’t find the blankets until the next morning and realized I had been sleeping under the mattress pad!

 

At 5 am we were in Mongolia and took a two hour bus ride to our yurts.  A yurt is a Mongolian tent made of leather which has a bed made of wood.  I have plenty of pictures.  All of the people live this way with one bathroom for an entire village!  Most have no running water except at public fountains which are used for cooking, bathing and washing.  We were in the grasslands and that was pretty much all you could see in every direction except for the main meeting house where people go for meals.  So at 7 am we sat down to a breakfast of pickled turnips, spicy cabbage, greens, something like cornbread, hardened condensed milk cubes and mare’s milk.  Mmmm….

 

Afterwards we got on our bikes and went for what I originally thought was going to be a one hour ride.  Three hours later we made it to another village of yurts.  Three hours on a bike in the rolling hills.  I was exhausted.  It was neat to see the villages and we were near the mountains so it was pretty and the air was clean – but I don’t think any of us were really in shape for that!  There were a few men skinning lamb which we later found was lunch.  We had a great meal and then they came into the yurt, pushed the tables back and we slept for an hour.  Our entire group was split between two yurts.  After that a hike in the mountains and then a short cut home – only 1.5 hours on the bike.  I couldn’t even hardly sit on the seat at this point because my toosh was already so sore!  But I made it back.  We all sat out in the fields for a long while snacking and someone had found beers.  Then the horse races began so we made our way out to the grasslands to watch the races.  This was followed by wrestling and some brave teachers even took a try.  After dinner there was a Chinese techno – you can imagine.  But the people were funny.  Walking up to me saying – you American – teach me dance!  The sky was gorgeous – definitely the most stars I’ve seen in ages. 

 

Early to bed and the next morning after breakfast we went horse back riding.  Pretty cool to ride a horse in the grasslands of Mongolia!  We found a small store (apples and beers in the back of a pickup truck) so we stopped for a snack before we made it back to the village.  Lunch, short nap and back on the bus.  We went to Ho Hut – a major city – had foot massages along with another feast of lamb and unknown wegetables as they call them.  To the airport and we flew back and arrived in Beijing by about 11:30 Sunday night. 

 

The week passed quickly and before I knew it the weekend had come again.  I went at 7:30 am this Saturday morning to the dirt market and the trip to town once again was an experience.  There were so many bikes on the road that there is only enough space in the middle for all of the cars to play chicken.  I love the dirt market – so many things to see and buy and I enjoy bargaining as well.  The sellers all have a great sense of humor – they laugh at you if you start too low and feign anger sometimes.  Later that night I went back into the city for Mediterranean food – not my favorite – and then to a teachers place to play games.  On Sunday I went to church and was happy to see that my second time there I already have a nametag.  Afterwards I went into the city with Bebe for Thai food and more shopping at the silk market where you can bargain for name brand clothes, purses, belts, shoes, etc.  They are all yelling at you – hey lady come buy shirt – come try pants – I have size for big lady! 

 

School is great – I have finally relaxed and some of that new job anxiety is gone.  I’m enjoying getting to know my kids as they share their feelings of homesickness and missing family and friends.  I can relate!  I’m missing all of you – keep in touch!

The Great Wall

 

Well, I don’t think I can title my entries by the week anymore as I am not doing a very good job of writing on Sundays.  I will start by saying that I am beginning to feel quite official here in China.  I received my ATM card for China Construction Bank and it works and as Monday was payday I actually have money there.  I should have my passport back by Friday with the official work visa and as time goes on I feel as though this is feeling more like home.  Well, not home…  but home away from home!

 

On Friday night I went with some friends to a jazz bar where a jazz band was playing.  The cool part was that the singer and guitar players are both teachers here at ISB.  So we went to support.  On Saturday morning all the new teachers were up bright and early for our first trip to the great wall.  We went to a part that was built in the 600’s.  Many were taking the gondola to the top but I was seeking some exercise and decided to hike.  Hmm…  I have never climbed so many steps all at once ever!  By the time Bebe, Malcolm and I made it to the wall we were already exhausted!  But then we needed to walk the wall.  It was absolutely gorgeous – I really enjoyed it.  Beautiful pictures – I wish I could attach some for you now.  We stayed up there for a couple of hours and then took the toboggan down which proved to be exciting – especially since the girl in front of me kept stopping around curves which would force me to ram into her!

 

Saturday night we went into the city for authentic Chinese hotpot.  They boil the water and seasoning in front of you and bring plates of vegetables, raw meats, etc. and you decide what to put into your own pot.  I love the food here – love it!  The only thing I have had that I didn’t like is some soups and tofu dishes with a “numbing” spice – very hot and your tongue feels like it is swelling.

 

On Sunday we had a girls night and went to dinner at a place called Red Rose – a Chinese muslim restaurant.  We ate great Chinese and watched the belly dancers.  When one man went up to dance he grabbed me to dance on the stage with him.  I was a little embarrassed at first but then just decided to have fun with it.  J

 

Tomorrow night is Open House at the school.  This is a busy week because on Friday I leave for a bike trip in Mongolia and won’t be back in Beijing until midnight on Sunday. 

 

I thought I would show you a list of the countries where my students are from.  As you can imagine, it is interesting listening to them talk.  Not just about themselves or their home countries but all of the different accents as well.  Some of the teachers tease that if I was teaching higher level math classes I’d have less Americans – I have to constantly remind them that at least we have REAL sports.  I have already seen and heard enough about cricket for a lifetime!!!  Check it out, keep in touch and as always – I’m missin you! 

 

Australia                   7

Brazil                                1

Canada                     4

China-Hong Kong                2

China-Taiwan              1

Cuba                         1

France                      2

Germany                   3

Ireland                      1

Italy                          2

Japan                                1

New Zealand            1

Norway                     2

Pakistan                    1

Philippines                       2

Singapore                 4

South Korea                3

Switzerland              1

UK                            10

USA                          29

Zimbabwe                 1